We’re not in Cameroon anymore

This morning began as a very restful one, as we took our time starting the day. By the time we did leave out, somewhere just after eleven, we were ready to see some of what Douala had to offer. Our first stop was to Cyberbao to check a few email messages and a visa website for one of Akilah’s adult students.

It was amazing, but within seven minutes I’d completed what would have taken me thirty minutes at the cyber café in Bafoussam. I was so dumb-founded that I forgot what else I needed to do. In all I spent twenty minutes on the computers, and paid 500 CFAs; not a bad deal for what used to be a little more expensive.

From there we went a little music searching. Akilah’s been attempting to find a couple of Sally Nyolo CDs at a reasonable price, but everyone she goes to wants to charge a ridiculous amount. Towards the end of the day, she decides to just wait until her next trip to Bamenda, the guy we met there was the only person who was honest with her and was willing to search out CDs for her.

For lunch, we went to LGM, which is on the next block down from Cyberbao. We decided to have pizza and ice cream for lunch. Though the pizza needed a little salt and sugar (for the sauce), it was pretty good. But just as in Yaoundé, the ice cream hit the spot. The flavors are pretty much on point.

As we walked down the street looking for music stores to find the CDs Akilah’s been looking for, we happened upon a bookstore we read about in a recent issue of Amina magazine. Amazed by the cleanliness and wide selection of books, I immediately shuffled to the magazine section; I’m a fanatic for any magazine that deals with hip-hop and urban culture.

By the time I realized what I was doing, I’d collected 13500 CFAs worth of magazines; that was about six. This worried me slightly as I thought I’d left all of my money at the hotel. Worried, I asked Akilah to find out if they accepted credit cards; unfortunately they didn’t. Right after that, I realized I had some money in my checkbook, which, ironically, was with me. I bought the books and let out a sigh of relief. Don’t understand what all the hype was considering all the magazines were in French.

Afterwards, we decided to take a walk through what appeared to be a “market-street” area. I’m glad we did, as I was able to find the last gift I needed for a friend back home. The first stand we stopped at I noticed a nice white boubou-type dress, so I inquired about the cost. The guy told me 7000 CFAs, but I told him I would pay four. He insisted that the cost was seven; I looked at him and laughed. Then said to him in English, that he knew if I were to go to a tailor’s to have it made, it would be 3500 CFAs for the embroidery and 1000 CFAs for the dress, and that would be the most I would pay for it.

He continued insisting on seven, I was still not buying it. At this point another guy came over and said six, I was still not interested in it and was about ready to walk away. There was an older gentleman there who noticed my actions and said something to the duo. I’m not sure what it was, but I’m sure he was saying to take it; they were refusing. At that point I began walking away, so one of the guys folded the top and was still trying to get 6000 CFAs for the dress. I looked at him and said that I wasn’t interested. The next thing I know the old man is coming over with a bag for the dress and telling them to accept my price. Sold!

As we walked down the street Akilah attempted to hold in her grin. She was thoroughly amazed at what I’d just done. Even though the guy wanted to stay at 6000 CFAs (seven really), I was walking away with a dress for the price I wanted, no if’s, and’s or but’s. Feeling good, we stopped past another stall.

This gentleman had some nice things outside, but as we were about to walk away he ushered us inside his stall to see what was there. We saw another dress we thought would be nice for a gift and asked the price. He wanted 12000 CFAs and Akilah and I looked at one another and essentially said we could move on, I was not paying that price.

We stood and just glanced at some of what he had, but were about ready to walk out of the stall when he asked what price we would offer. After thinking for a few seconds, I told him I would pay 5000 CFAs. He went down to 10000 CFAs, but I told him I couldn’t afford it, and then he asked for our final price. Akilah giggled and told him that was our final price. To reassure him, I said that I didn’t have anymore money. To prove it I showed the 3000 CFAs remaining in my pocket and said that I had another 2000 CFAs in my bag. As we were about to head out, he caved in and sold it to us at 5000 CFAs.

At this point we were truly astonished. Here we were purchasing half of an outfit that the vendors in Foumban were trying to sell to us for 20000 CFAs; and I got it for 5000 CFAs. Don’t people realize that if you’re from the west and visiting this country, nine times out of ten you’re willing to walk away from ridiculous prices? Maybe that’s why quite a few of these stands appear to just socialize during the day, because there are no buyers. I wonder why?

After all the walking we had done, it was time to head back to the hotel; I needed to rest. Instead of lying around I went to the poolside and read for a little while. It was good to feel as though I was already back at home, enjoying myself besides a four-star hotel pool.

Actually, on the way to the hotel, the taxi turned on a street about a block from Ibis, as we turned I was admiring this little glass shack-type restaurant and Akilah was dropping her mouth, and hitting me, at the sight of a Citibank. Shocked, we both immediately told the driver to stop, paid and got out just to marvel at the sight of our bank sitting on the corner. We walked to the front door to get any information on hours and contact information. After one of the guards gave the information, we walked away with a look of astonishment that I’m sure baffled them.

The funniest part of our encounter with the guards was that I was so caught up in the shock of seeing a Citibank that when we walked up the steps, I immediately asked my question. Guess he called himself schooling me on etiquette, because his first statement was “Good Afternoon.” Oops, rude me; I apologized and kept talking. Akilah was just a little irritated by that interaction. Her view was that considering all the rudeness she’s encountered at the hands (or mouths) of Cameroonians, how dare this guy try to correct my manners.

Since I’ve been here, very few, if anyone, has been as kind as the people in the Extreme North, and now Douala. Since we arrived into the hotel last night, no one has been rude, or even aggressive. This was not hard for either of us to notice, as we’re used to having to be on the defensive when dealing with people here. But Douala seems to have a different attitude; much different than the rest of the country.

Dinner was at La Provencal, a restaurant around the corner from the Ibis Hotel. We’d walked into it earlier during the day to find out what the menu was like, and decided this is where we would have dinner. The atmosphere in this restaurant was comparable to that of the Macaroni Grill back home in Maryland.

The restaurant also received points for serving our meal in less than fifteen minutes. It’s amazing the things that occur when folks are used to dealing with a certain clientele. Other than the Maturite restaurant in Foumban, I don’t recall any other establishment that served the food as fast. Does this mean La Provencal had “pre-prepared” food? If so, how come no one else in this country seems to be able to do so?